Chiesa di San Giovanni della Paglia

Among the oldest places of worship in Villafranca di Verona, the Chiesetta di San Giovanni della Paglia welcomes visitors a short distance from the Obelisk of the Square, along the ancient access road to the city coming from Verona. Although over the centuries the complex has undergone numerous transformations and today retains only the original altar, the Stations of the Cross, and some sacred furnishings, its history has roots in the Middle Ages. Thanks to the studies of local historian Luca Dossi, it has been possible to reconstruct the origins of the site, dating back at least to the 13th century.

According to research, the church was established as a place of worship and hospitality for the Knights Templar linked to the church of San Giovanni del Tempio in Mantua. A document from 1228, found in the archives of the Monastery of Saints Fermo and Rustico in Verona, actually mentions an "Ospitale della Paglia" in Villafranca, confirming the antiquity of the complex and its probable Templar origin. After the suppression of the Order in 1312, ownership passed to the Veronese commendation along with other Templar properties in the area. Over the centuries, the courtyard and the chapel have experienced the dominations of the Serenissima, the Napoleonic era, and the Wars of Independence. Just a few steps from the building also took place the famous episode of the Quadrato di Villafranca, on June 24, 1866, now remembered by the obelisk that stands nearby.

The name "della Paglia" also contains an interesting historical curiosity. Luca Dossi's studies suggest that it derives from the medieval term palea, which described an uncultivated land or one covered with thorns, rather than from a presumed use of the building as a shelter with straw bedding. The place name would thus recall the ancient landscape that characterized this area, once depressed, dry, and not yet urbanized.

Today, the Chiesetta di San Giovanni della Paglia represents a precious testimony to the medieval past of Villafranca, a place rich in history and charm that tells of the ancient origins of the city and the passage of the Knights Templar in the territory.

Source: Adami, M. V. (2021, May 7). The straw of San Giovanni was brambles... Verona Fedele.